There’s been a new face hanging around the restaurant for a few days. She is a tiny young girl of about twelve, who looks like a puff of wind would sweep her away. She has a beautiful face and smiles huge crinkly-eyed smiles whenever I pass her. Being used to the ebb and flow of people around here I don’t think to question who she is for several days. Until it becomes clear she’s sleeping here, at which point Crab explains she is Ooh and Bo’s daughter and she swam here from Burma.

“She what?” I ask, complete incredulity written across my face. Crab re-iterates, “yes she swam here”. Ooh and Bo couldn’t afford to pay the people traffickers who smuggle people over the border from Burma, so she went illegally in a boat with 14 other people. Crossing the foul straits between Ranong and Thailand, they were chased by the Burmese police, the boat overturned and she had to swim for it. Five people died. This little slip of a girl swam to Thailand, and then presumably with no money, certainly with no Thai language, managed to make her way across the country to the island.

A few weeks later, I am actually in Ranong, Burma, doing the annoying three-monthly visa crossing required on most long term visas. I arrive at the port having mini bussed across the country, spent hours on the ferry and finally arrived at the hell hole of a port. The place stinks. The smells of rotten fish, rancid sewage and gasoline hang in the air and choke everyone, along with the sweltering heat. On the dock, hundreds of boats are crammed along the edges of the water, packed in like starving kittens, bobbing at their mother’s teat.

When we clamber into the boat, the clean highway from Thailand cushions us on one side of the river, and on the other side the smoggy jungle hills of Burma, with all their secrets and their deathly struggles rise into the distance. I look down at the water, which is black, putrid, oily foulness. The stench is almost unbearable, and I have literally never seen water that looks like straight oil. It’s disconcerting.

In our wooden longtail boat we chug our way out into the wide water stream that divides the two countries. Belching gasoline, as we pick up speed the air clears a little bit. I cannot believe that this little girl was in this water. Cannot imagine her cheerful eyes and sweet smile racing under cover of darkness across this waterway with the Burmese police on her tail. I cannot begin to contemplate the fear as she lands in the filthy water, or the strength she must have had to swim across the miles of water, and haul herself oil coverd and exhausted from the obnoxious river.

I dread to imagine the life she has come from. Something in her demeanour, something in her eyes speaks to me that she is a victim. Unfortunately in a place like Burma, with no protection, no women’s rights, a war torn, bloody land, just a beautiful little slip of a girl making her way is unlikely not to have encountered hardships. I wonder what she has seen, what those intelligent gentle eyes have borne witness to. What she thinks behind that luminous smile. Of course she just gets on with it: is happy, smiles, enjoys being with her family, is glad to be alive, is glad of the moment she is living and the opportunity to enjoy it.

A few weeks later the girl gathers her things in a plastic bag and swinging it against her leg waves goodbye. She is off to another beach to work in a resort. I hope she is well treated, I hope they are good to her, that someone there will be protecting her, that she wont be abused, violated, exploited or hurt in anyway. She is perfectly happy as she gets on the bike to go, this is her chance, a shot at Thailand, a shot at a good life, work, food, some comfort. She is glad to take it and I pray with all my heart it works out for her as the bike speeds out of the village and up the dusty dirt road.

Related posts:

1. Joe and Egger get a photo from Burma
2. Joe and Egger’s Little Boy….

A few days ago I started running up the mountain. With it being so hot it’s difficult to find time that’s cool enough to run, so when it started pouring rain I threw on my shoes and headed off, confirming for the whole village that, yes, I am totally barking. My comeuppance was quick to appear, as predicted by all the Thai people who had shaken their heads at my folly, this morning I couldn’t get out of bed.

This is not an uncommon occurrence for me, being definitively NOT a morning person. But even my addled morning brain could detect this was something different, and a slightly extreme reaction to having inflicted one little mountain run on my poor  unfit body.

My back feels like it has collapsed, any strength or power I had there is gone completely and my legs and hips felt like they belong to the dingly dangly scarecrow, disconnected from my body’s centre and barely under its control. I drag myself through the morning washing of body parts, wrestling with t-shirts and scrubbing of faces before moving like a zombie to the car and going slowly through the motions necessary to get Clear Sky to school.

Only when I am at home again, and despite the mountain of stuff I’ve got to do today, know that I am only fit to fall back into bed, does it dawn on me that my bones are aching unaccountably all over. I remain prostrate in the bed for the rest of the day, adamant this can’t be Dengue Fever because I’m not hot, until Shrimp comes in, feels my head, and says actually I am on fire, burning up. At which point I begin to consider that this might well be Dengue.

Aedes Aegypti Mosquito

And so it begins, the days of lying inert, pained, unable to move, unable to look at anything due to stabbing pain behind the eyes, so just staring at the wall. The doctor confirms I have dengue and runs blood checks to see how low my white blood cells are, if they drop below a certain level I could be in danger of developing Dengue Haemorrhagic Fever, which can be fatal.

I ride out the wave of the illness in bed, sweating it out, alternately hot and cold, cold and hot, bathed in sweat and shaking with chills. As the virus runs through my body I develop agonising head pain and swellings all over my skull, an insistent nagging pain like toothache, but consuming my entire head.

When I start to feel better I crawl out of bed and eat some dry crackers, everything tastes like metal and makes my stomach turn but I force down the food and water as best I can. After a couple more days the nausea leaves, although the head pain remains, debilitating and frustrating me from being able to concentrate or write.

What is more disturbing when the illness finally leaves, is that I find I have sunk into a lethargic depression, from which rousing myself is proving virtually impossible. I can get up and fake that I’m okay enough to get Clear Sky off to school, but that saps all of my energy and as soon as she’s gone I’m a teary heap, unable to tackle even the smallest of tasks. Apparently this is quite common with dengue, but it is so demoralising and frustrating to feel almost well, but puffed out and exhausted from just climbing up the stairs.

Apparently there has been an outbreak of Dengue, with 26,000 cases throughout the country and six deaths in the last week alone. Dengue is transmitted by a small daytime mosquito, one of the really pesky ones that it’s hard to swat. There are around 40 million cases of Dengue each year globally, and several hundred thousand Dengue hemorrhagic fever each year.  By the late 1990s, dengue was the most important mosquito-borne disease affecting humans after malaria, in Africa and Asia.

There is currently no vaccine or treatment for Dengue. It’s hard to imagine a disease being this common, and this devastating, in a western country without serious effort and funding being put into finding a cure, treatment, or some kind of adequate prevention.

Just saying.

Related posts:

1. The One Small Change Challenge
2. Night Fishing, deserves a quiet night

thanks Paula!!!!

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This is one of the most beautiful places in the entire world. This island, with its powerful jungle landscapes, cascading waterfalls and stunning beaches can take your breath away with its startling beauty.

I’m honoured to live here, I try to appreciate the beauty of nature that surrounds me here, and I try to respect it. It is terrifying to see the impact that living has on the environment here. In the west it is easier to ‘not see’ as your trash gets carted away, debris put in skips, waste removed.

Photo credit: Anja (thanks!)

Here everything gets dumped: in the river, the ocean, on the street, everywhere. Some rubbish is removed but you have to pay, so most of the time it’s easier to chuck it in the river. You literally see the impact of peoples’ trash around you at all times.

I’ve been wanting to make a few changes to reduce our impact on the environment, and then I found the brilliant one small change challenge over at hip mountain mama. Basically you make one small change at the start of each month leading up to earth day on April 22.

The changes I’m committing to this month are:

• Switching to canvas shopping bags
• Moving the washing machine pipe to water the garden
• Switching to all natural laundry detergent.

I’m working on implementing a guttering system and a couple other things, but will do my best to do these this month.

Will let you know how it goes……

Related posts:

1. Kids’ Day
2. Doing the Dengue Merengue

All is quiet in Jungle Town, after the raucous New Year celebrations. We have settled into some kind of rhythm of life again after the busy busy days surrounding the holidays.

An exciting new project has come up for me, and this week I will be off to experience the joys of night fishing. I’ll be taking a longtail out to fish with the locals, authentically – lao kao and all. Really looking forward to it, although I’m hoping the waves will be coming down and the moon sheds enough light.

Will update with my tales from a Thai fishing boat as soon as I can.

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The best bits of Thailand that aren’t in any guidebooks, and are passed on by word of mouth alone; discover the secret hotspots no one wants you to know about.

For many seasoned travellers and backpackers Thailand is old hat. Having been a popular tourism destination for more than twenty years, Thailand is now suffering somewhat from a perceived lack of exoticism and a distinctly ‘mainstream’ over-touristy feel.

The result is many travellers are reluctant to tread the well-worn backpacker trail around the standard tourist spots. But in reality Thailand has some incredible off-the-beaten-track places very few people know about, and which offer amazing, authentic Thai experiences for those in the know.

Here are some of the best kept secrets:

Koh Phayam

Off the Andaman coast of Thailand, Koh Phayam is a spectacular island which has remained off the mainstream tourist trails for a surprisingly long time. The island’s jump off point is close to Ranong and it has views of the beautiful Burmese archipelago which lies directly to its north.

The sleepy little island is a retreat for many people who enjoy its broad white beaches, shady trails, and funky bungalow operations. There are no cars or proper roads, transport is strictly limited to mopeds, and it can only be reached by old style fishing boats. These facts add both to its old-school charm and pleasant inaccessibility. Travellers who make the effort will be well rewarded by an island which provides a truly Thai beach experience.

Talay Noi

One of the most spectacular sights in southern Thailand, Talay Noi is a vast wetland and lake spanning 457 square kilometres and providing sanctuary to some 187 species of birds. The huge lake can be explored by longtail boat, and is absolutely breathtaking in its scale.

Visitors can see hundreds of buffalo wading through the wetlands, while local fishermen work the waters, or explore the incredible flora and fauna. The village of Talay Noi is a quaint, old-style Thai town, largely untouched by tourism, and has a wide range of handmade woven products on offer, which are made by the local people.

Chiang Dao

If you’ve tired of the commercial areas surrounding Chiang Mai and Pai in northern Thailand, why not take a two hour bus journey to Chiang Dao for some of the best kinds of northern Thai magic. Chiang Dao is a quiet little town with a spectacular backdrop of limestone mountains, and a stunning national park.

The rolling hills, characteristic of the area, make for a relaxing and beautiful retreat, and standard backpacker accommodation is available in the town. Chiang Dao also makes a great base point for trekking and exploring the waterfalls and peaks of the area, and has a weekly market where local hill tribe people come to sell their handicrafts.

Doi Mae Salong

The stunning location of Doi Mae Salong is its main attraction, nestled as it is within a short distance of both the Laos and Burmese borders. Until recently the town was fairly inaccessible and that has meant it has remained a well-kept secret.

Doi Mae Salong has a fascinating history as an isolated guard point for the Thai border and had a strategic part to play in the Vietnam War. It was also renowned as the former central point for the notorious opium trade of the golden triangle.

Nowadays the town boasts chilled out resorts, and a thriving hill tribe population of Akha people. Tourists can be prepared for a warm welcome, a fascinating taste of hill tribe culture, Thai history, and a delicious exploration of the many tea plantations.

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