The Killing Fields ‘Choeung Ek’

A sobering walk through the brutal Khmer Rouge history of Phnom Penh.

More than thirty years since the end of the horrific Khmer regime, no trip to the remarkable city of Phnom Penh is complete without a visit to one of the most terrible testaments to human brutality on earth; the killing fields.

Lying over an hour away from Phnom Penh itself, a city contrasting gracious colonial architecture and horrific Khmer history, Choeung Ek is a must on every tourists’ to-do list.  And until it has been checked off most people can feel its brooding presence on their itinerary.  The harrowing site is the final resting place for some of the 200,000 people who died at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, and comprises more than 120 mass graves containing their remains.

The sheer scale of the genocide that occurred here sets it apart from any other experience:  the horrors that happened here demand an awed respect, and there are very few places on earth where one can take a walk through the evidence of such a brutal bloody history.

During the period from 1975 to 1978 the Khmer Rouge executed more than 16,000 people at this, one of the largest burial grounds in Asia. That the carnage was so recent is hammered home by the rawness of the site, where visitors can still see bones in open graves, remnants of prisoners’ clothing and an eerie Buddhist monument filled with 5,000 skulls.

According to their policies, the Khmer Rouge systematically tortured and murdered men, women and children for a variety of crimes ranging from being university educated, to wearing glasses. Anyone who didn’t fit the template of Khmer culture, who was different in any way, was killed for their alleged crimes.

There is no escaping what happened here, and this is certainly no happy-go-lucky day trip, but it is a profound glimpse into the history of the Cambodian people and what they have endured. Taking the hot dusty journey out from the city, where fancy restaurants nowadays rub shoulders with high end hotels, visitors will see elements of simple Cambodian life and countryside. This makes arrival at the mass grave an even more sobering experience after seeing the families and descendents of those upon whom these atrocities were committed.

Choeung Ek is also, of course, an important source of income for locals in the area. The economy the site generates is evident from the outset, as ragged local children beg for change from the tourists who take their photos. Guides earning their living at the site are very often former prisoners of the Khmer regime, or survivors of the genocide.  Often their firsthand descriptions of the murder of their entire families are some of the most powerful vocal histories most visitors will encounter in their lives.

Everywhere in Cambodia, the legacy of Pol Pot’s evil regime can be seen in those missing limbs, or hideously disfigured by landmines, but the killing fields are one of the few opportunities to understand the scale of the loss of life, and to pay respect to the incredible sacrifice of a generation of Cambodian people.

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Today is a day of wonderful people beginning their journeys.

My cousin is flying from London to take over as head chef, and help me open our new cafe venture. In what couldn’t be a starker contrast, Joe and Egger’s oldest son sets off today to join us from Burma.

Joe just got the call to say everything is confirmed, the people traffickers are paid, and he should be crossing the border, crammed in the back of an illegal van, to make his way across Thailand to us.

Wishing them both God’s speed.

Related posts:

1. Joe and Egger get a photo from Burma
2. Swimming From Burma

The best bits of Thailand that aren’t in any guidebooks, and are passed on by word of mouth alone; discover the secret hotspots no one wants you to know about.

For many seasoned travellers and backpackers Thailand is old hat. Having been a popular tourism destination for more than twenty years, Thailand is now suffering somewhat from a perceived lack of exoticism and a distinctly ‘mainstream’ over-touristy feel.

The result is many travellers are reluctant to tread the well-worn backpacker trail around the standard tourist spots. But in reality Thailand has some incredible off-the-beaten-track places very few people know about, and which offer amazing, authentic Thai experiences for those in the know.

Here are some of the best kept secrets:

Koh Phayam

Off the Andaman coast of Thailand, Koh Phayam is a spectacular island which has remained off the mainstream tourist trails for a surprisingly long time. The island’s jump off point is close to Ranong and it has views of the beautiful Burmese archipelago which lies directly to its north.

The sleepy little island is a retreat for many people who enjoy its broad white beaches, shady trails, and funky bungalow operations. There are no cars or proper roads, transport is strictly limited to mopeds, and it can only be reached by old style fishing boats. These facts add both to its old-school charm and pleasant inaccessibility. Travellers who make the effort will be well rewarded by an island which provides a truly Thai beach experience.

Talay Noi

One of the most spectacular sights in southern Thailand, Talay Noi is a vast wetland and lake spanning 457 square kilometres and providing sanctuary to some 187 species of birds. The huge lake can be explored by longtail boat, and is absolutely breathtaking in its scale.

Visitors can see hundreds of buffalo wading through the wetlands, while local fishermen work the waters, or explore the incredible flora and fauna. The village of Talay Noi is a quaint, old-style Thai town, largely untouched by tourism, and has a wide range of handmade woven products on offer, which are made by the local people.

Chiang Dao

If you’ve tired of the commercial areas surrounding Chiang Mai and Pai in northern Thailand, why not take a two hour bus journey to Chiang Dao for some of the best kinds of northern Thai magic. Chiang Dao is a quiet little town with a spectacular backdrop of limestone mountains, and a stunning national park.

The rolling hills, characteristic of the area, make for a relaxing and beautiful retreat, and standard backpacker accommodation is available in the town. Chiang Dao also makes a great base point for trekking and exploring the waterfalls and peaks of the area, and has a weekly market where local hill tribe people come to sell their handicrafts.

Doi Mae Salong

The stunning location of Doi Mae Salong is its main attraction, nestled as it is within a short distance of both the Laos and Burmese borders. Until recently the town was fairly inaccessible and that has meant it has remained a well-kept secret.

Doi Mae Salong has a fascinating history as an isolated guard point for the Thai border and had a strategic part to play in the Vietnam War. It was also renowned as the former central point for the notorious opium trade of the golden triangle.

Nowadays the town boasts chilled out resorts, and a thriving hill tribe population of Akha people. Tourists can be prepared for a warm welcome, a fascinating taste of hill tribe culture, Thai history, and a delicious exploration of the many tea plantations.

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