The front page of Thai Rath newspaper today. Not something you ever want to see in beautiful Thailand…..

Thanks @RichardBarrow for the incredible reportage, bangkok dangerous map, and up to the minute tweeting from the front line.

For incredible images of what’s happening right now in Bangkok please go to The Nation’s State

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I’ve spent the last two days in Bangkok with Golf sorting out her university.

Golf is one of the brightest kids I’ve ever had the pleasure of working with. She is so switched on and diligent, more so than most of the adults I know. If you give Golf a task, despite the language barrier, she will understand it immediately and follow it to it’s conclusion meticulously and without exception.

Golf and Nong Mail

Over the past four years I have been astounded by her tenacity, her generosity, and her bravery, not just when she lost her toe, but in many other horrible situations that have been inflicted upon her. She is an incredible soul and a wonderful person, and I am honoured that she has come into my life and become part of my family.

As is typical of Golf, not wanting to bother anybody and with low expectations created by having been raised in a poor family, she had enrolled at a local university in the south near her hometown. She made this choice based on the fact that she has no money, and despite our promises to help her, could not conceive that someone like her could go to a good university. We talked about it and decided that we will make it happen by hook or by crook, and so she and I went up to the city and enrolled her in a very good university where she will get a good degree and excellent English language courses.

I didn’t want her choices to be based on money, so we will find a way to pay for everything and I am eternally grateful to the most generous of souls who will help us with her tuition fees this first term.

This amazing child is setting out on a path which has the potential to change her life, and have an impact on the situation of her whole family. I know that she will treat this opportunity as a gift from God, and work as hard as she possibly can to fulfil her potential.

I am so proud of her and I cannot wait to see how brightly her light will shine in the future.

Related posts:

1. My niece Golf loses her toe

thanks Paula!!!!

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The Killing Fields ‘Choeung Ek’

A sobering walk through the brutal Khmer Rouge history of Phnom Penh.

More than thirty years since the end of the horrific Khmer regime, no trip to the remarkable city of Phnom Penh is complete without a visit to one of the most terrible testaments to human brutality on earth; the killing fields.

Lying over an hour away from Phnom Penh itself, a city contrasting gracious colonial architecture and horrific Khmer history, Choeung Ek is a must on every tourists’ to-do list.  And until it has been checked off most people can feel its brooding presence on their itinerary.  The harrowing site is the final resting place for some of the 200,000 people who died at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, and comprises more than 120 mass graves containing their remains.

The sheer scale of the genocide that occurred here sets it apart from any other experience:  the horrors that happened here demand an awed respect, and there are very few places on earth where one can take a walk through the evidence of such a brutal bloody history.

During the period from 1975 to 1978 the Khmer Rouge executed more than 16,000 people at this, one of the largest burial grounds in Asia. That the carnage was so recent is hammered home by the rawness of the site, where visitors can still see bones in open graves, remnants of prisoners’ clothing and an eerie Buddhist monument filled with 5,000 skulls.

According to their policies, the Khmer Rouge systematically tortured and murdered men, women and children for a variety of crimes ranging from being university educated, to wearing glasses. Anyone who didn’t fit the template of Khmer culture, who was different in any way, was killed for their alleged crimes.

There is no escaping what happened here, and this is certainly no happy-go-lucky day trip, but it is a profound glimpse into the history of the Cambodian people and what they have endured. Taking the hot dusty journey out from the city, where fancy restaurants nowadays rub shoulders with high end hotels, visitors will see elements of simple Cambodian life and countryside. This makes arrival at the mass grave an even more sobering experience after seeing the families and descendents of those upon whom these atrocities were committed.

Choeung Ek is also, of course, an important source of income for locals in the area. The economy the site generates is evident from the outset, as ragged local children beg for change from the tourists who take their photos. Guides earning their living at the site are very often former prisoners of the Khmer regime, or survivors of the genocide.  Often their firsthand descriptions of the murder of their entire families are some of the most powerful vocal histories most visitors will encounter in their lives.

Everywhere in Cambodia, the legacy of Pol Pot’s evil regime can be seen in those missing limbs, or hideously disfigured by landmines, but the killing fields are one of the few opportunities to understand the scale of the loss of life, and to pay respect to the incredible sacrifice of a generation of Cambodian people.

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The Full Moon Party is legendary around the world as one of the most hedonistic parties on the planet. I get asked the same questions repeatedly about attending the full moon party and how to survive the madness, so I’ve put together some advice (most of it’s just common sense) for those that are thinking of taking a walk on the wild side. Photos are kindly provided by my friend Aishlin.

I’ll also soon be posting a story about the Full Moon Party twenty years ago compared to today, with some great old photos provided by my friend Ross.

1. Don’t take Anything you’re not Prepared to Lose

This applies to everyone – I hear so often “I’m not going to get trashed, I won’t lose my stuff”. You’re going to a giant party, with buckets of Thai whisky, you never know what’s going to happen. So just don’t take anything you’re not prepared to part with.

Even if you are a sensible head and don’t get wasted, pickpockets can be rife, and if you’re a young man with a few drinks inside you beautiful lady-boy pickpockets are particularly rife. I can pretty much guarantee that all those people comatose in the sand, stripped from head to foot of all their worldly possessions, didn’t intend that to happen. But it did.

Particularly don’t take your passport, your fancy phone, your ipod, your laptop, digital camera or in fact ANYTHING worth more than $10. I always advise people to just take a disposable camera, I’ve had people who’ve not only been relieved of their cameras but droped them in the sand, down the toilet and in buckets of Whisky.

2. Take Money in Two Different Hiding Spots

Take some money, again not a huge amount, and put it in two different points on your body. I don’t advise taking a credit card back up unless you’re prepared to lose it. You probably need to bring about 5,000 baht to cover any eventuality, but you can have a good party and get home again on 1,500 baht.

Drinks are cheap: a bucket of Thai whisky with mixers and red  bull (for party power) will set you back about 250 Baht or 7 USD. Mind the buckets, Sangsom, is particularly potent, you have no idea how much you’re drinking, and it does funny things to some people (see folk comatose in sand above). And PS. Don’t ever put a drink down, ladies especially, and don’t ever share a bucket from a stranger.

If you’re a real grown up and buckets aren’t for you,  I’d advise setting up camp at the furthest left hand side of the beach ( at Paradise – the original home of the Full Moon Party). You can sit at the low tables there and spectate, while quietly drinking BYOB of wine, or proper mixed drinks from the bar.

3. Take Contact Information

Know where you’re staying, bring the phone number. If you’re planning to get wasted write it on a body part. Know the name of where you’re staying and write that on a body part too. I can’t tell you the number of people stumbling around Haad Rin the next morning who literally don’t know, or are to drunk to pronounce where they’re staying.

Have a friend who is not going to the party who you can contact in an emergency, such as getting arrested. Preferably someone staying at your guest house so they can access your room or safe to get your passport and credit cards should the need arise. Also if you’re going alone, let someone know and be aware to check you return safely.

4. Do Not Get on a Moped for any Reason

There are more casualties on Full Moon Night than on any other night. Every year people die. The road to Haad Rin is totally lethal on a bike on party night. Not only is it winding, steep and with a sheer cliff face, its traversed by a massive number of people who should not be operating any kind of vehicle. There are also stories of robberies along that road, with people being pulled from the back of bikes.

The best way to get to the party is by speedboat from one of  the other beaches. Pretty much everywhere runs boats on the night. If the weather is bad and the boats can’t go then take a taxi, preferably a 4 wheel drive, especially if you’re coming from the more remote beaches like Haad Salad, Than Sadet or Thong Nai Pan.

If you try and get a taxi back in the morning, there will be plenty of choice, but you might have to wait a while for it to fill up and it might be a bit overpriced. The best option is to take the speedboats back while it’s still dark!

5. Have Fun!

Despite all the dire warnings and dangerous things that can happen, the Full Moon Party is still on of the most amazing experiences on earth. If you’re sensible about transport, mind the buckets, and go with a good attitude you will likely have one of the best nights of your life. Even for non-party-heads the people watching opportunities are unlimited, the spectacle is a sight to be seen, and the fire dancing is amazing. Whether it’s your cup of tea or not, you should probably check it out once in your life.

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Today is a day of wonderful people beginning their journeys.

My cousin is flying from London to take over as head chef, and help me open our new cafe venture. In what couldn’t be a starker contrast, Joe and Egger’s oldest son sets off today to join us from Burma.

Joe just got the call to say everything is confirmed, the people traffickers are paid, and he should be crossing the border, crammed in the back of an illegal van, to make his way across Thailand to us.

Wishing them both God’s speed.

Related posts:

1. Swimming From Burma
2. Joe and Egger get a photo from Burma

Some of you might know I write for travel magazine Unearthing Asia, a great online magazine all about the delights of Southeast Asia. I’m really pleased to let you all know that the first print edition, featuring an article by yours truly, is now out.  For those of you in Asia you can grab it at a newstand now,  or click here to browse it online.

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All is quiet in Jungle Town, after the raucous New Year celebrations. We have settled into some kind of rhythm of life again after the busy busy days surrounding the holidays.

An exciting new project has come up for me, and this week I will be off to experience the joys of night fishing. I’ll be taking a longtail out to fish with the locals, authentically – lao kao and all. Really looking forward to it, although I’m hoping the waves will be coming down and the moon sheds enough light.

Will update with my tales from a Thai fishing boat as soon as I can.

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Some days I feel like my relationship with this place is crazy-making. I lose perspective when embroiled in all the crazy drama of this little jungle town.

And then there’s this…..

Incandescent dawn on this crazy little beach I love, by Russell Gordon – Check out his beautiful Flickr stream here.

Related posts:

1. Kids’ Day

The best bits of Thailand that aren’t in any guidebooks, and are passed on by word of mouth alone; discover the secret hotspots no one wants you to know about.

For many seasoned travellers and backpackers Thailand is old hat. Having been a popular tourism destination for more than twenty years, Thailand is now suffering somewhat from a perceived lack of exoticism and a distinctly ‘mainstream’ over-touristy feel.

The result is many travellers are reluctant to tread the well-worn backpacker trail around the standard tourist spots. But in reality Thailand has some incredible off-the-beaten-track places very few people know about, and which offer amazing, authentic Thai experiences for those in the know.

Here are some of the best kept secrets:

Koh Phayam

Off the Andaman coast of Thailand, Koh Phayam is a spectacular island which has remained off the mainstream tourist trails for a surprisingly long time. The island’s jump off point is close to Ranong and it has views of the beautiful Burmese archipelago which lies directly to its north.

The sleepy little island is a retreat for many people who enjoy its broad white beaches, shady trails, and funky bungalow operations. There are no cars or proper roads, transport is strictly limited to mopeds, and it can only be reached by old style fishing boats. These facts add both to its old-school charm and pleasant inaccessibility. Travellers who make the effort will be well rewarded by an island which provides a truly Thai beach experience.

Talay Noi

One of the most spectacular sights in southern Thailand, Talay Noi is a vast wetland and lake spanning 457 square kilometres and providing sanctuary to some 187 species of birds. The huge lake can be explored by longtail boat, and is absolutely breathtaking in its scale.

Visitors can see hundreds of buffalo wading through the wetlands, while local fishermen work the waters, or explore the incredible flora and fauna. The village of Talay Noi is a quaint, old-style Thai town, largely untouched by tourism, and has a wide range of handmade woven products on offer, which are made by the local people.

Chiang Dao

If you’ve tired of the commercial areas surrounding Chiang Mai and Pai in northern Thailand, why not take a two hour bus journey to Chiang Dao for some of the best kinds of northern Thai magic. Chiang Dao is a quiet little town with a spectacular backdrop of limestone mountains, and a stunning national park.

The rolling hills, characteristic of the area, make for a relaxing and beautiful retreat, and standard backpacker accommodation is available in the town. Chiang Dao also makes a great base point for trekking and exploring the waterfalls and peaks of the area, and has a weekly market where local hill tribe people come to sell their handicrafts.

Doi Mae Salong

The stunning location of Doi Mae Salong is its main attraction, nestled as it is within a short distance of both the Laos and Burmese borders. Until recently the town was fairly inaccessible and that has meant it has remained a well-kept secret.

Doi Mae Salong has a fascinating history as an isolated guard point for the Thai border and had a strategic part to play in the Vietnam War. It was also renowned as the former central point for the notorious opium trade of the golden triangle.

Nowadays the town boasts chilled out resorts, and a thriving hill tribe population of Akha people. Tourists can be prepared for a warm welcome, a fascinating taste of hill tribe culture, Thai history, and a delicious exploration of the many tea plantations.

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